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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.