Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
